Lucca, Florence (briefly), then back to Rome

This morning we got up relatively early since we had to drive on to Lucca.  Annie needed to get the car turned in to Hertz before noon in Lucca, else we’d have to drive it into Florence, and she really didn’t want to do that.  So we got up early, enjoyed a breakfast at our hotel (which by the way I can highly recommend – Grand Hotel de la Ville [www.grandhoteldelaville.it] – it’s right by the central core of Parma and easy walking to move everything), and made our way out of town.  Another thing we learned:  Hertz NeverLost GPS SUCKS.  It doesn’t help that the roads in Italy are full of roundabouts, confusing signs and general mayhem.  We did finally find our way to the Autostrada and were on our merry way.

 

The drive over the mountains from Parma to Lucca was beautiful.  We drove through a light fog which just added to the beauty.  It’s about a two hour drive.  Once you get over the mountains, you are close to the coast, and you drive through the area famous for Carrera marble.  Lots and lots of marble yards with huge blocks of it along the autostrada.  Eventually you head up the hills again and just as you pass Pisa (and no, we didn’t stop unfortunately, time was running out) you hit the outskirts of Lucca.  The old city it a citadel surrounded by a wall and earthen berm.  We actually drove into the citadel through the original gates, but driving there was, to say the least, scary.  Streets are very, very narrow, many unpassable, and throngs of people walking willy-nilly.  Eventually we double parked and I sat in the car while Annie ran to the hotel to find out where Hertz was located (the directions we had received at a gas station were, again, useless).  Then we had to find our way out of the citadel! 

Eventually we got out, drove around the perimeter, and found the Hertz location and dropped off the car.  We then drug our bags back to the hotel to check in and dump our stuff so we could get some lunch. 

  

As we headed out, all the shops we closing up for siesta.  Ug!  But the restaurants were open, so we stopped at a café a few blocks from the hotel in one of the piazza’s and had a glass of prosecco and a bite to eat.  I had this “sandwich” of mozzarella and prosciutto.  It was kind of like a quesadilla, only thicker, more like a pita folded over.  It was actually very tasty.  Then we set off to do some shopping with what stores were open.

After getting a bite, we roamed around town, checked out what shops were open to see what we wanted to go back to, then Annie decided to go to a beauty shop to get a wash and blow dry – so I set out to check out some of the side streets.  I found this quaint little shop that was open that had foodstuffs (mostly for tourists) and bought a few things to bring back for my friends.  I wandered down the back alleys until I came upon one of the piazzas lined with trees, and they had tents set up for some big event.  It wasn’t until later that I found out it was for a huge European comics convention going on next weekend. 

 

 

Finally I got a text from Annie, so we met up and started shopping.  We went into this shop selling original art from local artists – and let me tell you, Annie is dangerous – I wound up buying two (small) pieces of art.  It’s the most money I’ve spent on an item on vacation that didn’t have a purpose other than be aesthetically pleasing.  Annie bought several painting though.  It was her anniversary present to herself (it was she and her husband’s 22^nd). 

 

I took her by a couple of the shops I had seen while roaming around on my own, and looked in a few new ones, and then we rushed across the squares to meet up with a friend of hers living in Lucca – Isabelle.  Isabelle is a very sweet woman, who came to Lucca on vacation from Germany about 8 years ago and then went back to Germany, packed up, and moved to Lucca.  We stopped in a Bar to have a glass of prosecco and some nibbles.  Then Isabelle took us on a little tour of the town.  We walked down the piazza towards the wall that surrounds the city.  At different points, there are embankments you can walk up (essentially a ramp) and they have turned the top of the wall into a parkade.  Apparently, cars at one time were allowed to drive along the top.  You get a good view of the city from the wall too, so you can check out a few of the more stately home’s enclosed gardens, etc. 

We then walked back down into town and Isabelle took up to this wine shop where she knows the owner.  He let us go down into the wine cellar, which was lined with rows and rows of bottles, some of them dating back 50 years (covered in dust).  It was so amazing.  I had never been into an authentic wine cellar/cave.  I was able to snap a few pictures that turned out okay.

 

Isabelle had to run to a party and left Annie and I, so we continued our shopping.  We stopped in a ceramic shop and were in awe of all the pottery.  It was all done locally, too, so we both picked up some very small items as gifts.  The shop lady wrapped them up good for us without even asking. 

We headed back to the hotel to drop off our bags after our shopping “kill”.  Isabelle had kindly made up reservations at one of the best restaurants (at least that’s what we were told, and it was a fair assessment) in Lucca; Buca S’Antonio (http://www.bucadisantantonio.it/LENG/Z2/C11959-1/hhcm-Home.html). 

I don’t quite recall Annie’s starter, but I had the chicken liver pate and she grimaced at me.  Not a fan.  I found it quite delicious though.  For my entrée, I ordered the Ravioli Zucca – basically what Annie had the night before and I had developed a taste for.  It’s hard to get good pumpkin ravioli in the States.  These were a little sweet, a little savory, and hit the spot for me. We also had a bottle of wine, so we were feeling no pain by the end of dinner.

 

 

We made our way back to the hotel and crashed.  I found the BBC news channel and just zoned out after a hot shower.  Did I mention the humidity in Italy right now?  I am constantly sweating and soaked, even after a little walk.  Neither one of us were expecting it to be like this.  Annie’s been here a month, and the humidity apparently got worse just before I flew in.  Lovely.

The next morning, we had to catch the train to Florence to meet up with Annie’s sister, Adriana.  Breakfast was included with our hotel night, and what a spread they had.  It was better than the one we had in Parma (and that was a good breakfast).  I found out form Isabelle the night before that most celebrities stay at our particular hotel in Lucca, the Hotel Noblesse (http://www.hotelnoblesse.it/en).  The rates are apparently pretty good, and it’s an excellent little hotel, just off the main shopping strip.  The manager, Ellis, told us to get the best rates to call or email. 

After breakfast, we hopped in a taxi and got to the train station.  The trains that run regionally in this area of Italy all seem to be double decker, newer models, at least those for the high traffic routes.  We did see a few of the old diesel cars at the station for the more local routes to the smaller cities.  It took us about an hour and a half to get to Florence.  Then we had to find Andrina.  Typical of Italian trains, they didn’t post the platform we were arriving at until the very last minute, and even then, I think they got it wrong.  Eventually we found each other though, and Andrina took us through the packed streets to the Duomo and main square to meet her husband.  We sat for some drinks while Annie and her sister got caught up (Drina is staying in Florence for several months and hadn’t seen Annie since before they all left for Italy).  Then she took me to get some gelato (mmmmmmmm) and we found a spot to grab a slice of pizza.  Unfortunately, it wasn’t the best pizza in Florence, but better than I usually get back home.  We also stopped into a couple of shops.  Drina pushed me to buy a man-purse since my jacket was so unnecessary for my trip here with the weather being what it is right now (and I need pockets!). One shop we went into had fancy leather satchels and bags, but for a basic man-purse, they wanted over 100 euros…..NOT!  I’m sorry, I am just not going to spend than on a basic small bag to haul crap around while I play tourist.  We wound up finding a street vendor near the train station that had canvas bags for a tiny fraction.  Hello!

Andrina put us back on the train, and Annie and I headed back to Rome, where her friend Adelle was going to be meeting us after flying in from the States.  This trip for me, so far, is….can you say whirlwind?  But it’s fun and I am enjoying it.

When we got to Rome, oddly on time, Adelle was waiting on the steps of the apartment.  She hadn’t waited too long though.  Annie made a little plate of cheese and prosciutto and opened a bottle of wine while Adelle got unpacked and I took a few moments to reorient.  We sat and chatted for a while, then Annie took us down the street for dinner.  The restaurant she wanted to take us to was closed for Sunday unfortunately, so we walked on and checked out a few other places.  We settled on a place that smelled wonderful and had lots of tables full – Urbana 47.  It was rather hip – part industrial, part farm house. 

We ordered a bottle of wine, a starter of Stracchino (a cheese that they fry up) over swiss chard, and a variation of eggplant parmesan.  Both were delicious.  Annie and Adelle shared a dish of pasta with sardines for their main, and I had Ravioli filled with a lamb ragu that had pine nuts in it.  It was a handmade pasta too.  Very, very savory.  I enjoyed every little meat filled pillow.  MMmmmmmm.  I knew I’d love the food in Italy.

After dinner we walked past the Coloseo (Colloseum) and stopped for a drink at a café that overlooks it.  We had a beautiful vantage point.  I was in awe.  It is beautiful all lit up at night.  Unfortunately, I couldn’t get a good picture.  So we just sat and enjoyed a cocktail and chatted.

By the time we got back to the apartment, it was 11, so we said our goodnights and hit the sack.

Arrival and Parma

I got some decent sleep last night, but my dogs are still barking from all the walking.  Okay, so let me get you caught up.

I got into Rome a few nights ago.  It was 10pm.  First off, when our plane landed, we taxi’d for a long time.  They have a lot of taxi-ways torn up, so you wind up sitting and waiting for other planes to move around.  Then we finally get to the gate and disembark – but wait, it’s not that easy.  Once we get down the jetway, they made us walk down stairs onto the tarmac to some waiting buses, which then bus us to another terminal on the other side of the airport.  They dump you off and you go into the building to go through passport control.  Since I am a U.S. citizen, I had to go through the non-EU line, which was actually faster.  The woman barely glanced at my passport and stamped it, sending me onward to baggage claim.

Rome’s main airport is an old, tired facility.  It really needs a facelift badly.  I walked was seemed like a kilometer or two to baggage claim, where I then had to find the right carousel.  It reminded me of something out of the 70s (which is probably when that terminal was built…early 70s).  I waited again for a good 20 minutes, and finally my bag arrived.  Then I went to go through customs, which was just a bunch of guys in military-like garb standing around, and they didn’t even look at me, so I went through to meet my driver in Arrivals. 

My driver spoke very little English, but he did understand me, and what limited Italian I know.  We get in the car (a Mercedes minivan  - you won’t see those in the States!) and wind our way out of the airport.  Fiumicino seems like a long way from Central Rome (it really isn’t), but we were on the autostrada for a good while.  Once we hit surface streets, everywhere you look (even though it was dark) are ancient Roman structures, mixed with everything up to the modern era.  Very surreal!  When stopped at a light, I noticed a “working girl” standing on her corner.  All I could do was laugh; the world’s oldest profession can be found everywhere!

The driver gave me a little tour as we drove through the streets towards where I was staying.  He pointed out different structures and buildings, which was very nice to get a mini-tour.  Once we got to the area where Annie’s apartment is, we drove around these narrow streets in circles looking for it.  We could not find 11 Piazza de Grillo to save our lives.  He called his dispatch, and they were no help.  He called a few other people, again, not help.  We drove around for over a half hour and I finally texted Annie, who quickly called me.  Turns out the house number was wrong on the sheet given to me, and the driver.  It was off by a digit.  Finally we pull up to the correct place, and it’s nearly midnight in Rome (and I haven’t really slept in about 24 hours).  Annie meets us downstairs and we thank the driver (I tipped him extra for the aggravation).

Annie’s apartment is in this older building on the top floor that is near the Forum.  It’s been completely remodeled.  I will post some pictures when I get back to Rome, but it’s a quaint apartment.  My bedroom faces towards the Forum.  She gave me the nickel tour and I took a quick shower and crashed.

The next morning, Friday (yesterday), I woke up before the alarm and got repacked in my carry-on for the weekend.  Annie and I grabbed a taxi down the street and headed over to the train station (Termini) to wait for our train.  Apparently, all over Europe, they have this habit of posting terminals, gates and platforms at the last minute, so we had to keep watching the board to know where we needed to go.  We grabbed some coffee and croissants at a café and talked, and people-watched.  It’s always fascinating to see the people coming and going through a station.

Finally we found out which platform and headed over.  We were on the high speed line to Bologna, making only stops in Florence and one other place.  We finally pull into Bologna (late by 20 minutes) and try to find the car rental place.  A security officer politely pointed out the way.  We get the car and start to drive out of town.  We used some Google directions, which were a bit confusing and wound up taking a wrong term.  I finally got the GPS fired up, and got us headed in the right direction. 

Italian drivers make Angelenos seem sane!  But, strangely, it works.  Haven’t seen an accident yet.  We eventually get to the A1 Autostrada and made our way out of Bologna.  The countryside you pass through is beautiful.  It’s very reminiscent of the Central Valley in California, only greener. MUCH greener.

At one point, we accidently took an exit we didn’t intend to (exit lanes come very quick with little warning), so we tried to U-turn when we got off the ramp.  This rental Annie got is a standard.  She couldn’t quite make the full turn, and tried to put it in reverse.  She and I both tried!  We followed the pattern, to no avail.  Finally this older gentleman who saw us struggling as traffic was building up came over to help us.  He got it into reverse for us (and I thought I understood what he did).  So we got on our merry way again.

Finally we arrived in Parma.  I figured it would be this quaint, tiny town.  Umm…NO.  It’s not a huge city, but it’s bigger and more developed than I imagined.  And more modern.  Oh, and with lots, and lots of traffic circles (ug!).  After dicking around with the map and the GPS, I finally saw a sign pointing to our hotel (the confirmation gave one the name, no address).  It was right on the edge of the central core.  We got checked in, dumped our bags, and headed out as we were starving.

Parma, while an old city, feels very contemporary.  The central core of town is all the older buildings.  As we walked around and checked things out, I was struck by the architecture; tightly packed buildings of older apartments and retail space next to ones built during the Renaissance.  The cobblestone streets were beautiful, but not fun to walk on.

 

 

 

 

 

 

We found the Duomo (old cathedtral), which was just reopening after siesta, and stepped inside.  Wow!  It was amazing!  The ceiling was covered in frescos, the walls were very ornate, the woodwork sublime.  It was dark in there, and the flash didn’t work well, but I was able to grab a few photos that turned out okay, and they turned the lights on briefly so I was able to get some of the frescos.  I was just stunned at the fact that I was standing in the middle of a church built over 500 years ago.

 

 

 

 

 

Annie and I walked on.  Most of the shops were still closed for siesta.  We wanted to look in the Salumerias, but we would have to wait.  We walked down one narrow path and found a small bar/café open and walked in.  The workers were very friendly and this young man working the counter introduced himself: Felip.  He was 19 (just a baby!) and graduating high school.  He served us some lambrusco (red sparkling wine) as we chatted.  I don’t know if any of you have had lambrusco before, but the stuff we get in States is crap! This stuff was so good.  It was from a small local vitner who refilled the bottles for the café.  Felip made us some small sandwiches on this lovely brown bread with prosciutto (the area’s claim to fame).  It was just so incredibly delicious (and simple!).  For the two of us, the wine and sandwiches were less than 10 euros.  It was a steal!  We tried to go back later, but we couldn’t find it since we lost track of the many little streets we had walked down.

We continued on, looking into stores that were open and checking out the town.  We made our way down to the Piazza de Garibaldi, where the streets in the surrounding area were very high end.  After checking out the area, we stopped at another café on the Piazza for some more lambrusco and snack.  The waitress brought us some potato chips, olives and peanuts – apparently the norm in the parts.  We sat and talked and people watched, enjoyed our lambrusco and rested up.  We then walked down to the river that runs through the town.  Unlike in the states, the rivers here in Italy aren’t overly developed.  They keep them pretty natural.

 

We then started our journey to the now open salumerias  We also wanted to find that café again with Felip to maybe think about dinner there.  We stopped in one shop that had the local hams and cheeses.  Annie bought a big wedge of parmesan and a few other things, and I bought a lovely blue cheese – very creamy.  We hit a few more shops and found a little more high end salumeria, but still with good prices, and picked up a few more snacks and a couple of bottles of really good balsamic vinegar (also from the area).

After shopping all over town, and unable to find that little café we wanted to, we headed back to the hotel to drop stuff off and get some recommendations.  The hotel gave us a couple of recommendations and a map.  We set up down Strada della Republica and couldn’t find the place to save our lives.  We kept looking and looking.  Mind you, I can’t remember the name of the place today and haven’t had a chance to ask Annie, but it was a well regarded restaurant.  Eventually, we stopped a taxi and ask him to take us there.  We never would have found it.  Annie and I have discovered that asking people for direction in Italy is often useless.  They might think they’re telling you the correct way, but it always seems to turn into a bust and we have to struggle.

We did eventually get there and were able to have a nice dinner.  I had ordered a parmesan flan as my starter.  It was so incredibly rich, and parmesan is this region’s specialty.  It was definitely the right choice.  For my primi, I ordered a handmade pasta filled with beef and cheese, and served in a broth.  It was absolutely sublime.  Very subtle, but very flavorful.  Between that and the flan, I was filled up.  If I get the name of the restaurant, I will try to post it here. 

 

 

 

We went back to the hotel to crash.  It was a long day, but a very good one. 

My Italian Holiday Begins!

After a long absence, and the internal struggle for inspiration, I am back – and with a purpose (not a porpoise).  I am on my way to ITALY! 
 

This trip has been in the works for nearly a year.  My friend Annie (whom I used to work for as a tutor) is staying in Rome for a few months for an immersion program and rented an apartment.  She’s invited friends and family to visit, so when she offered – and I knew she wasn’t kidding – I jumped at the opportunity.  I am grateful for her invitation and generosity.  Many of my best vacations have been by invitation, so I am sure this will be one hell of a trip.

 
My trip started last night when my boss dropped me off at LAX Tom Bradley Terminal after work.  I worked a full day since I was taking a late flight.  Because  this is a once in a lifetime trip, and I got a hell of a deal, I sprang for a Business Class ticket.  So I had the opportunity to have access to the One World Lounge at LAX.  They are currently revamping the Bradley terminal, but British Airways and the Lounges are located in the newly refurbed part.  The loung was HUGE, and quite plush.  I even had the opportunity to take a shower.  The bathroom (they are all private) was as big as mine at home, only nicer.

 

After a nice, relaxing hot shower, I partook of some beverages and snacks.  It’s mostly self-serve, but they do have a full bar.  I opted for the champagne/sparkling wine they had open.  I wound up having several glasses, because if you are going to leave an open bottle around, I AM going to keep refilling.  I also had some snacks:  a nice roasted garlic-tomato soup that was tasty and filling, and some deli meats and cheeses.  I probably ate more than I should have, since I knew I was getting a meal on the flight too.

 

When it was time to board, I made my way through the new terminal to my gate.  I have to connect to Rome via London, and I chose British Airways.  My seat was in the hump of a 747…very private and very quiet.  The upper deck had three flight attendants.  That’s a lot for such a small cabin.  The staff was very friendly and sweet.  I started off with a pre-flight drink of champagne (again).   The seats are very comfy, and it stretched out into a lie-flat seat.   My seatmate was a lovely woman named Maggie.  She was on her way back home to Sussex after a seven month holiday to Hawaii and Australia with her husband.  We chatted quite a bit. 

 

 

Dinner was served about an hour after take off.  It’s a three course meal.  I have the Salmon Terrine as my first course, and enjoyed it very much.  The second course, I chose the fillet of beef.  It was good, but a little disappointing since the meat was a tad overdone, but that happens with beef on an airplane.  The taste overall for the entrée was a little on the bland side.  Hopefully on the return trip it will be better, or I’ll not pick the beef.

 

 

For the dessert round, I went for the chocolate mousse cake.  Very creamy, good chocolate flavor, but nothing special either.  It was an average dessert.

After the meal I stretched out to try and get some sleep.  I dosed off, but never fully got to sleep.  Part of it was being in an unfamiliar environment, part a little noise, and part just plain insomnia.  It hits me when I go on vacation sometimes.  I was afraid to take anything to dope me up too much since I had a window seat and if I had to get up for the restroom, I’d have to navigate over the legs of the guy in front of me.  Needless to say, it left me rather fatigued.  Eventually I gave up and read.

Eventually it was time for breakfast as we were a little under two hours out of London.  The starter was a fruit plate, choice of roll and juice.  I wasn’t overly hungry, so it was enough for me.  They also offered a bacon roll after that, and even though I love bacon, it just didn’t appeal to me.

 

About mid-day we landed in London.  My overall take on my flight is:  good, but not WOW.  Service was excellent, the cabin comfortable, but the food was nothing exciting.  The Salmon Terrine was excellent – I could have eaten several of those – but it barely balanced out the less exciting courses. 

 At Heathrow, we pulled into a gate at the satellite terminal, so I had to wind my way down to the train to take me to the main building, then work my way through customs/security for connecting flights.  They failed to mention I could use the expedited lines, which I figured out after customs.  GRRRRRR.  Oh well.  It took me about as long as I expected it to.  Signage in terminal 5, however, is not terribly helpful.  It took me a while to finally find the signs pointing me to the lounges, but even then, they aren’t clearly marked – and when you’re in a terminal teeming with people from all over the world jockeying to get from gate to gate, it’s basically a gauntlet to run.  I finally figure it out and made my way to gigantic South Lounge for BA. 

 

Once I got checked in, I checked out the food and drinks.  Pickings were slim as far as choice goes.  The lounge at LAX had more on offer.  They had a couple of soups, three types of finger sandwiches, chips and some desserts.  That was it.  The offerings for drinks (alcoholic and soft) were far better though.  They had bars set up all over the place.  Maybe they figure they’ll get you drunk so you don’t think about the lack of food. 

 

Oh, one note on BOTH lounges I visited:  they were overrun by families traveling with toddlers, infants and sundry kids.  I understand they have as much right to bring their families to the lounge, but considering the sheer volume, it would behoove airlines to dedicate space to families so they have a place geared towards their needs, and the rest of the adults have a place that can be quiet and not have to worry that some kids is going to knock you down.  At LAX, the family that sat close to me had their children well managed and engaged in quiet activities.  Coudoes to them!  But a few others let their kids run rampant, and the staff  just ignored it.  :/

 

Okay, so back to Heathrow and my lounge experience.  I didn’t have a lot of time there, but I did get to relax some and start this blog.  I snacked, boozed a little and just checked things out.  But unfortunately, since a gate hadn’t been assigned to my connecting flight yet, when it finally was about an hour before it was to leave, I wound up having to hoof it all the way to the other end of the terminal.  It was NOT fun.  Had they told me sooner, I would have moved to the lounge on that side.  Oh well.

 

Now I am on my flight to Rome, drinking a nice Gin & Tonic and waiting for dinner to be served.  We shall see what’s on the menu.  The flight attendant, Jeremy, has been very friendly.  He can identify with my fatigue.   

                          

And I am happy to report that this meal was far better than my transatlantic meal!  For a two hour flight, they serve pretty much a full meal – reminiscent of the meals I’ve had on Alaska and Virgin.  We had a choice of Prawns in Curry, or a Chicken Caesar Salad – I opted for the salad.  It was nicely presented, and accompanied by a wedge of Stilton cheese, some crackers, a roll and handmade chocolates for dessert.  The chicken, while well done, didn’t come across as overcooked at all and was seasoned nicely.  It was one of the better caesar’s I’ve had.  The cheese was sublime.  I love a good stinky cheese, and this one was flavorful and creamy.  And the chocolates….one was a truffle with a raspberry-ish filling; the other a coffee macaroon.  I don’t know if it’s that the catering is better out of Heathrow, or it’s hard to screw up a salad (but people do, believe me), but I definitely rank this over the meal on the long haul flight.  Maybe BA will redeem themselves on the return flight.

So in about an hour I land in Rome.  Tomorrow morning Annie and I get on a train to Bologna and pick up a car to tool around Parma and Luca for the weekend.  It should be a lot of fun.  I may not be able to post while I am on that trip, but will if I can.

 Update:  I am in Parma and off to Luca in the morning.  Hopefully I will have time tomorrow to update on the trip thus far.  It's been an adventure, but I need sleep tonight, so will have to get to this later.

Ciao!