Lucca, Florence (briefly), then back to Rome

This morning we got up relatively early since we had to drive on to Lucca.  Annie needed to get the car turned in to Hertz before noon in Lucca, else we’d have to drive it into Florence, and she really didn’t want to do that.  So we got up early, enjoyed a breakfast at our hotel (which by the way I can highly recommend – Grand Hotel de la Ville [www.grandhoteldelaville.it] – it’s right by the central core of Parma and easy walking to move everything), and made our way out of town.  Another thing we learned:  Hertz NeverLost GPS SUCKS.  It doesn’t help that the roads in Italy are full of roundabouts, confusing signs and general mayhem.  We did finally find our way to the Autostrada and were on our merry way.

 

The drive over the mountains from Parma to Lucca was beautiful.  We drove through a light fog which just added to the beauty.  It’s about a two hour drive.  Once you get over the mountains, you are close to the coast, and you drive through the area famous for Carrera marble.  Lots and lots of marble yards with huge blocks of it along the autostrada.  Eventually you head up the hills again and just as you pass Pisa (and no, we didn’t stop unfortunately, time was running out) you hit the outskirts of Lucca.  The old city it a citadel surrounded by a wall and earthen berm.  We actually drove into the citadel through the original gates, but driving there was, to say the least, scary.  Streets are very, very narrow, many unpassable, and throngs of people walking willy-nilly.  Eventually we double parked and I sat in the car while Annie ran to the hotel to find out where Hertz was located (the directions we had received at a gas station were, again, useless).  Then we had to find our way out of the citadel! 

Eventually we got out, drove around the perimeter, and found the Hertz location and dropped off the car.  We then drug our bags back to the hotel to check in and dump our stuff so we could get some lunch. 

  

As we headed out, all the shops we closing up for siesta.  Ug!  But the restaurants were open, so we stopped at a café a few blocks from the hotel in one of the piazza’s and had a glass of prosecco and a bite to eat.  I had this “sandwich” of mozzarella and prosciutto.  It was kind of like a quesadilla, only thicker, more like a pita folded over.  It was actually very tasty.  Then we set off to do some shopping with what stores were open.

After getting a bite, we roamed around town, checked out what shops were open to see what we wanted to go back to, then Annie decided to go to a beauty shop to get a wash and blow dry – so I set out to check out some of the side streets.  I found this quaint little shop that was open that had foodstuffs (mostly for tourists) and bought a few things to bring back for my friends.  I wandered down the back alleys until I came upon one of the piazzas lined with trees, and they had tents set up for some big event.  It wasn’t until later that I found out it was for a huge European comics convention going on next weekend. 

 

 

Finally I got a text from Annie, so we met up and started shopping.  We went into this shop selling original art from local artists – and let me tell you, Annie is dangerous – I wound up buying two (small) pieces of art.  It’s the most money I’ve spent on an item on vacation that didn’t have a purpose other than be aesthetically pleasing.  Annie bought several painting though.  It was her anniversary present to herself (it was she and her husband’s 22^nd). 

 

I took her by a couple of the shops I had seen while roaming around on my own, and looked in a few new ones, and then we rushed across the squares to meet up with a friend of hers living in Lucca – Isabelle.  Isabelle is a very sweet woman, who came to Lucca on vacation from Germany about 8 years ago and then went back to Germany, packed up, and moved to Lucca.  We stopped in a Bar to have a glass of prosecco and some nibbles.  Then Isabelle took us on a little tour of the town.  We walked down the piazza towards the wall that surrounds the city.  At different points, there are embankments you can walk up (essentially a ramp) and they have turned the top of the wall into a parkade.  Apparently, cars at one time were allowed to drive along the top.  You get a good view of the city from the wall too, so you can check out a few of the more stately home’s enclosed gardens, etc. 

We then walked back down into town and Isabelle took up to this wine shop where she knows the owner.  He let us go down into the wine cellar, which was lined with rows and rows of bottles, some of them dating back 50 years (covered in dust).  It was so amazing.  I had never been into an authentic wine cellar/cave.  I was able to snap a few pictures that turned out okay.

 

Isabelle had to run to a party and left Annie and I, so we continued our shopping.  We stopped in a ceramic shop and were in awe of all the pottery.  It was all done locally, too, so we both picked up some very small items as gifts.  The shop lady wrapped them up good for us without even asking. 

We headed back to the hotel to drop off our bags after our shopping “kill”.  Isabelle had kindly made up reservations at one of the best restaurants (at least that’s what we were told, and it was a fair assessment) in Lucca; Buca S’Antonio (http://www.bucadisantantonio.it/LENG/Z2/C11959-1/hhcm-Home.html). 

I don’t quite recall Annie’s starter, but I had the chicken liver pate and she grimaced at me.  Not a fan.  I found it quite delicious though.  For my entrée, I ordered the Ravioli Zucca – basically what Annie had the night before and I had developed a taste for.  It’s hard to get good pumpkin ravioli in the States.  These were a little sweet, a little savory, and hit the spot for me. We also had a bottle of wine, so we were feeling no pain by the end of dinner.

 

 

We made our way back to the hotel and crashed.  I found the BBC news channel and just zoned out after a hot shower.  Did I mention the humidity in Italy right now?  I am constantly sweating and soaked, even after a little walk.  Neither one of us were expecting it to be like this.  Annie’s been here a month, and the humidity apparently got worse just before I flew in.  Lovely.

The next morning, we had to catch the train to Florence to meet up with Annie’s sister, Adriana.  Breakfast was included with our hotel night, and what a spread they had.  It was better than the one we had in Parma (and that was a good breakfast).  I found out form Isabelle the night before that most celebrities stay at our particular hotel in Lucca, the Hotel Noblesse (http://www.hotelnoblesse.it/en).  The rates are apparently pretty good, and it’s an excellent little hotel, just off the main shopping strip.  The manager, Ellis, told us to get the best rates to call or email. 

After breakfast, we hopped in a taxi and got to the train station.  The trains that run regionally in this area of Italy all seem to be double decker, newer models, at least those for the high traffic routes.  We did see a few of the old diesel cars at the station for the more local routes to the smaller cities.  It took us about an hour and a half to get to Florence.  Then we had to find Andrina.  Typical of Italian trains, they didn’t post the platform we were arriving at until the very last minute, and even then, I think they got it wrong.  Eventually we found each other though, and Andrina took us through the packed streets to the Duomo and main square to meet her husband.  We sat for some drinks while Annie and her sister got caught up (Drina is staying in Florence for several months and hadn’t seen Annie since before they all left for Italy).  Then she took me to get some gelato (mmmmmmmm) and we found a spot to grab a slice of pizza.  Unfortunately, it wasn’t the best pizza in Florence, but better than I usually get back home.  We also stopped into a couple of shops.  Drina pushed me to buy a man-purse since my jacket was so unnecessary for my trip here with the weather being what it is right now (and I need pockets!). One shop we went into had fancy leather satchels and bags, but for a basic man-purse, they wanted over 100 euros…..NOT!  I’m sorry, I am just not going to spend than on a basic small bag to haul crap around while I play tourist.  We wound up finding a street vendor near the train station that had canvas bags for a tiny fraction.  Hello!

Andrina put us back on the train, and Annie and I headed back to Rome, where her friend Adelle was going to be meeting us after flying in from the States.  This trip for me, so far, is….can you say whirlwind?  But it’s fun and I am enjoying it.

When we got to Rome, oddly on time, Adelle was waiting on the steps of the apartment.  She hadn’t waited too long though.  Annie made a little plate of cheese and prosciutto and opened a bottle of wine while Adelle got unpacked and I took a few moments to reorient.  We sat and chatted for a while, then Annie took us down the street for dinner.  The restaurant she wanted to take us to was closed for Sunday unfortunately, so we walked on and checked out a few other places.  We settled on a place that smelled wonderful and had lots of tables full – Urbana 47.  It was rather hip – part industrial, part farm house. 

We ordered a bottle of wine, a starter of Stracchino (a cheese that they fry up) over swiss chard, and a variation of eggplant parmesan.  Both were delicious.  Annie and Adelle shared a dish of pasta with sardines for their main, and I had Ravioli filled with a lamb ragu that had pine nuts in it.  It was a handmade pasta too.  Very, very savory.  I enjoyed every little meat filled pillow.  MMmmmmmm.  I knew I’d love the food in Italy.

After dinner we walked past the Coloseo (Colloseum) and stopped for a drink at a café that overlooks it.  We had a beautiful vantage point.  I was in awe.  It is beautiful all lit up at night.  Unfortunately, I couldn’t get a good picture.  So we just sat and enjoyed a cocktail and chatted.

By the time we got back to the apartment, it was 11, so we said our goodnights and hit the sack.